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Strengthening

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ResiningEdit

BEFORE USING RESIN, FIBERGLASS, BONDO, OR ANY OTHER HARMFUL MATERIAL, READ HERE.
Thumbnail-Achtung.svg Your safety is your responsibility alone, not the authors of these articles! This page includes content that is considered to be instructional, using products, tools, substances and/or methods that may, or may not be harmful if additional safety concerns are not addressed. It is highly recommended that you research and follow the applicable safety methods before following these instructions. This Wikia has a safety page you should become familiar with, but it is in no way considered to be a complete authority on the subject.

What is Resin?Edit

Resin is a polyester based product used in plastic construction. Once a catalyst has been added, the resin hardens through a chemical reaction and the result is a smooth, hard, and potentially very strong plastic. Reinforcement is often added in the form of fiberglass sheeting, or particulate such as sand or powdered metal. It can also be used by itself to give a very smooth surface that is often ready for paint.

Resin: How ToEdit

Step 1: Gather your materialsEdit

  1. "Fiberglass" Resin
  2. Resin Catalyst
  3. Brushes
  4. A container (usually the resin can lid)
  5. Mixing stick
  6. The piece you will be resining
  7. A stand for your piece
  8. A respirator
  9. Rubber or latex gloves
  10. Long sleeve shirt
  11. Safety Glasses

Step 2: Prepare your workspaceEdit

  • Make sure you have enough room to work
  • Move anything that you don't want resined away from your workspace
  • Make sure you have good ventilation
  • Wear a RESPIRATOR and SAFETY GLASSES. Resin is extremely toxic.
  • Read the directions on the back of the resin can
  • Make sure that the temperature is good for resining (find the temps on the back of the resin can).

Step 3: Begin to resinEdit

  1. Pour your resin into your container. Don't pour too much, because resin has only a 5-10 minute working time after you have added the catalyst
  2. Add the correct amount of liquid hardener (catalyst) for the amount of resin used
  3. Stir the resin and catalyst thoroughly
  4. Dip your brush, and begin to "paint" the piece you're resining. Paint in sections. After the resin has started thickening, throw the unused resin away.
  5. Let the resin dry
  6. Paint the rest of the piece. You can paint on 2 layers for better beginning strength.

That is the resining portion of strengthening your armor. The next section is fiberglassing, which strengthens much better.

FiberglassingEdit

What is FiberglassEdit

Fiberglass is a combination of polyester Resin and matting made of fine woven strands of glass. It provides extremely strong, and relatively lightweight support to any base to which it is applied.

Step 1: Gather your materialsEdit

  1. "Fiberglass" Resin
  2. Resin Catalyst
  3. Fiberglass cloth
  4. Brushes
  5. A container (usually the resin can lid)
  6. Mixing stick
  7. Scissors
  8. The piece you will be resining
  9. A respirator
  10. Rubber or latex gloves
  11. Long sleeve shirt
  12. Safety Glasses


Step 2: Prepare your workspaceEdit

  • Make sure you have enough room to work
  • Move anything that you don't want resined or fiberglassed away from your workspace
  • Make sure you have good ventilation
  • Wear a RESPIRATOR and SAFETY GLASSES. Resin is extremely toxic.
  • Read the directions on the back of the resin can
  • Make sure that the temperature is good for resining (find the temps on the back of the resin can
  • Cut the fiberglass into smaller pieces (around 3" wide, and 6"-12" long)


Step 3: Begin to resinEdit

  1. Pour your resin into your container. Don't pour too much, because resin only has a 5-10 minute working time after you add the catalyst
  2. Add the correct amount of liquid hardener(catalyst) for the amount of resin used
  3. Stir the resin and catalyst thoroughly
  4. Wet the area you are about to fiberglass with resin. This will help hold the fiberglass mat/cloth in place.
  5. Place a strip of fiberglass mat/cloth INSIDE the piece. Place it on top of where you "wetted" the piece.
  6. Take your brush and spread resin on the fiberglass strip (it will be easier to dab the resin on as brushing will move the fiberglass mat/cloth). When it's good and soaked, it should be sort of see-through.
  7. Place another piece of fiberglass overlapping the last piece, and resin that piece as well
  8. Continue placing and resining each piece of fiberglass until the inside of the piece is covered. Let it dry.
  9. When it's dry you can add another layer of fiberglass using the same method.

Hot Glue MethodEdit

So Mom and Dad wont let you use fiberglass because it's "dangerous", you're "allergic", it's "toxic", it's "too expensive", or "you're too young"?

Look no further my friend, because I, Frost, have created the cheap DIY armor reinforcing method which will keep your wallet (or parents wallet) semi full (gotta spend some money!)

This method uses hot glue sticks. What is hot glue?

Hot glue is strong and flexible and very easy to repair if torn (like it will ever tear!). This method melts down a mass amount of hot glue into a coffee/pie crust tin and is brushed onto the INSIDE of your armor.

Ready to get to the details? Of course you are!

What you need Edit

1. 2 packs of 30 hot glue mini sticks (high temp) 6 dollars

2. A portable electric stove (might already have, otherwise, they are cheap)

3. Several Paint brushes with hairs, not foam brushes.

4. Pie/coffee tin

5.Your armor piece.

Now those 2 packs are for a helmet, if you are doing an entire suit, I'd buy 2 packs for arms and legs, 3-4 packs for the thighs, and 4-5 packs for the torso



Process Edit

1. Plug in your portable Electric stove.

2. Turn heat to medium or 5 (whatever is in the middle)

3. Add 1 pack of Hot glue and melt it down.

4. Once all glue is completely melted and hot, get a paint brush ready.(Let hot glue sit for 1min on hot stove so it gets REALLY hot after it's already melted). CAUTION! Super Hot Glue will BURN YOU, WEAR SHOP GLOVES!

5. Lightly brush on a thin coat of hot glue on the inside so you don't warp the piece by over weighing it.

6. 30 seconds later your glue is dried and ready for the second coat!

7. Start brushing the hot glue in until it is 1/4th to 1/2th of an inch thick or however thick/strong you want it.

8. 30 seconds later and the second layer is dry.

9. Make sure you turn off your stove every few minutes, you don't want to burn the hot glue in the tin.

10. After you have your desired thickness/strength, you can now paint/bondo the outside!

If you will still be using resin, resin the inside and outside of the armor piece ONCE, then hot glue over the resin inside.

IF USING RESIN, ONLY USE HOTGLUE ON INTERIOR OF PIECES (EG INSIDE OF HELMET (NON-VISIBLE PARTS))

Because hot glue is rubbery, your armor will be able to take some bending because the main support is flexible, if you use resin or bondo though, it wont be as flexible since the outside is hard. If your hot glue ever rips because you fell in your armor, just heat up a few sticks in a tin again and brush the glue into the damaged area!


Note: Some parts of the hot glue may remelt in instances of high temperature; eg: left in sun, hot car, summer's day...


I hope this helps you guys who won't be using fiberglass, you dont need to use resin, but it's optional, If you will use resin, read more info about Skull Candy Girl's Aqua resin method, her method can be used with my hot glue method very easily.

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